I’ve been tracking my net worth properly since 2015, and in today’s video I share the simple (non-fancy) spreadsheet I use to keep track of my investments. If you want to know how to calculate your net worth and tracking your progress each month feel free to use my free template – no opt-in required, just to go the link, click ‘File’ then Make A Copy’ and you can edit it to your own desire.
Link to free Google Sheet net worth template:
This net worth tracker isn’t fancy but it does the job – and at the end of the day the most important thing is that you track the numbers and do tasks to improve the numbers – whether it is designed nice does not matter.
Use this Excel spreadsheet to track and calculate your net worth at all times and across multiple asset classes like stocks, property, cryptocurrency, retirement funds, cash, business holdings and more.
Ray Corcoran here. So in this week’s video, we’re doing something a little bit different. I’m going to go over my net worth spreadsheet that I’ve been using for a number of years. It’s not very fancy, but it works and it’ll do what it needs to do for you. And I’m going to share with you the template. I’ve just recreated it. This is not … These are just sample numbers on this one, but basically, what you’ll be able to do with this spreadsheet is track your net worth across multiple different asset classes. You’ll be able to track the kind of changes in your net worth in both overall and also per asset class. And the reason this is so important, obviously, if you can track your net worth with every single month, just the fact that you track it will mean that you’ll be able to get much better results.
Just like if you are trying to lose weight, if you track your weight every single day, naturally, you can’t help but start to notice how your actions affect your results. Same for finances and money. The more you track it, the more conscious you’re going to get. Even subconsciously you won’t be able to help yourself. You’ll notice that when you do bad things money wise, that it’ll affect the numbers. And I know for me, the more that I track these things, the more conscious I am, the less keen I am to spend as well. So it is good to track. Early on the numbers might not be great, or they might be small numbers, but they all start small and eventually they’ll get bigger over time.
So in this video, I’m going to go over a walkthrough of the document. It’s very, very simple. It’s not very fancy designed or anything like that. This is literally how I designed it just for myself. I’m not going to sell this document or anything like that. So it’s not going to be pretty and beautiful. If you need a pretty and beautiful document for you to start saving money, then that’s a bit of a cop out. But, I sell these beautiful journals and all this sort of stuff. And I think a lot of that stuff’s rubbish to be honest. But anyways.
This is the main document, so the main sheet. This will show … I kind of go over column by column. Here I have the projected net worth. This is just sample numbers by the way. If you’ve got a certain target you want to hit by a certain date, then you can put that in there and you kind of see how you’re tracking it if you’re on, if you’re actually going to get there. Here, you can add in your age. So whatever month you turn another year older. You can put that in there. I put the month and year. This is actually technically the day, it’s actually 21st of January, but I just, this is not technically correct, but I just like having Jan 21 and the month and year in there.
Here’s the main one. Obviously this column is your net worth. So this is just your total. And then you’ll have … Every column will have a corresponding change column. So this will show basically this is the number, but this is the increase in that number over the last month.
So you can start to see that the rate at which you are increasing hopefully, or decreasing. Here we’ve got cash. Pretty straightforward, cash or cash equivalence. The change in that. You have superannuation or just your retirement funds and the change in that. And you can add in columns. So if you have stuff, other stuff that I haven’t mentioned here, you just copy both of these columns, add it to the end, and you’re good to go. And just double check all the formulas are the same. And then, yeah.
In terms of stocks, now you can break this down into more individual stocks. So you might have a separate tab just for stocks. I don’t personally do that. I have the majority of my stock money in ETFs, mostly through Stockpot. So it’s not a very exciting portfolio that changes all the times. But if you’re a person that has lots of individual stocks, you may justify doing that. But I don’t personally do that. I just lump up the total value and track it like that.
Then if you have a business, I keep the business cash at bank as obviously an asset. I’m a sole director of the company, so I would claim all of that. I typically deduct an amount for any kind of, if I’m paid up-to-date on tax, then I would count that amount. But if I haven’t paid my tax slightly, sometimes I’ll under report this. And this is all approximate numbers. Getting it to the exact dollar is not really that useful for me. As long as this is relatively close to the number, that should give me a relatively accurate number.
Same thing for property. This is property. This is property equity that I have. Me and my wife, we have multiple properties that we split 50/50. This just my side of the equity. And I like tracking everything on my side, and I actually, in my own personal one, I have a separate tab for her net worth as well. Even though we’re a combined unit, I do like just tracking my own stuff because it’s what I’ve been doing for years and years anyway. And I just put her stuff in there. And I do have a calculation for the total net worth across the couple, but I don’t like counting my wife’s assets as my own.
Then you got offset account if you have them. A car … For me personally, I don’t have a lot of physical assets. I don’t keep a lot of stuff. I have got a good laptop and cars and that sort of stuff. So that’s pretty much it for assets. I don’t own generally expensive stuff so I don’t personally count that. I’m sure I could count a bit more of that and that would add up, but it’s not really important to me.
Crypto, you can either lump that all together or you can separate it out across multiple coins if you want to.
And then, in the notes column, I’ll put in just any notes from that month. Sometimes I’ll say I’ve paid my quarterly tax that month. That’s why the numbers should be lower. I may have paid insurance. It may have been a big rise in the stock market. If anything like that happens, I will mention that there, mainly just my own information, help to provide a bit of context around the numbers to the left of it.
The next thing is just on the … This is very simplified. My personal spreadsheet has got heaps of different calculations on there, but it’s not really important for most people, just any sort of stuff I want to personally calculate. And this is a spreadsheet that you can own and modify yourself. So put in … If something is important to you to track or monitor, then put that in. This is just a simple one based on the sample data, but I just do net worth over time. And then obviously, once you really do this for a long time, I’ve got, what, six years of data, from 2015 to 2021, roughly. So it’s pretty cool to see. The longer you have this document, the more exciting or interesting it gets, I find, because you can really start to see long-term trends and you can also start to see the exponential effect.
My graph is quite exponential now because after several years of going like this, now it’s really starting to get momentum. So that’s really exciting. Yeah. This is a document I check multiple times per week. There’s no real reason to do that. You can probably update it once a month and that’s fine. But for me, I love just staying up-to-date with the fluctuations in values and stuff and just seeing progress. I love seeing progress. That motivates me, makes me want to do more things to keep increasing the numbers. I treat it like a bit of a video game.
And then next one, goals. So obviously this is not the most fancy design thing. So if you’re a graphic designer, you can make it pretty if you want. But this is just an example I actually have. The way this looks for my personal document is I have one for the last probably four years I think I’ve been doing this tab. But I just put five to seven goals max, sometimes four goals. I just say like net worth and maybe business revenue on average and a few other things, but it’s pretty simple. I’d rather have … I’ve done like big goal setting things. I’ve found that a smaller list was much more motivating and it was quite clear on what to do. So you can put in anything you want here. I’ve just put some examples here.
And then the property portfolio tab. I’ve just put 10 properties in here, but if you’ve got 20 or more, then go nuts. But this might not have everything that you’d want to track, but it’s got most of the important stuff. We’ve got the address of the property, the state, post code, repayment per month, rent that I’m getting per week. I also break it down per month and per year. I do some approximate expenses for the year. Now that might fluctuate, but I just want to work out like ballpark sort of cashflow that I could probably get. And then I also calculate based on a long-term average of 5% appreciation. More out of my own curiosity. I just want to see like how much would this add to my net worth, at least in the early years. And obviously that will compound over time.
What bank is the loan with? As you get multiple properties, it starts to become more and more confusing. So it’s good to have all of this into one spot so you know exactly what loans are with which properties and what rates and which ones are fixed and what dates the fixed rate expires. And just the purchase price, who the property manager is for that. Sometimes there’s multiple people. I might have two contacts there that I kind of work with at the same time. What’s their phone number, property manager rates, current value of that property, how much do I owe, what’s the equity total, and what’s my equity?
Most of the properties that we have are … Well, all the properties are 50/50 split with my wife. So yeah, I just calculate my personal equity in them. And this is just sample numbers again. I do my equity percent in that property, the date that it was bought, when I can do a cash out refinance, or when would I … when would it be like the time I would look to do that? It could be six months after I buy it. It could be 12 months after I buy it. Depends how fast it’s depreciating and that sort of stuff.
I also have here, annual repayment extra repayments that I can make. For some of my interest only loans, you’re not allowed to pay as much as you want off per year. They go, you can pay up to 5,000 or 10,000 in extra payments every year. And I lose track of that. So I just put it in here so then I know that if I’m … Because some of my properties, they might be 3,000 or 4,000 in extra payments that have been made in a 12-month … This is in a 12-month period, by the way. And I want to make sure that I don’t get any kind of penalty for paying it off too fast, because I do have some loans are structured like that.
This is also the rate. What’s the interest rate after interest only ends? And, if there’s any kind of introductory rate that you are on. And then, when does the interest only period end? So if you’ve got three years of interest only, it’s going to be three years from the date that you bought it roughly. At least I can kind of prepare you.
I can look at this column and see, “Okay, cool, this repayment’s about to jump up,” because obviously interest only loans will pay less for the first two, three years, and then it’ll jump back up. So, it’s just more for cashflow and planning. So yeah, especially as you get multiple properties that will get more confusing.
Any other notes about the property that’s important? Some properties, the water bill is included in council rates. Other states is not a thing. You’ll get separate bills for that. So I just, I have usually lots of notes here, just so I can keep track on all little details about each property and each … even individual council. If you have a property registered with a certain council, sometimes they give you like a client number, that sort of stuff. So I’ll put that there as well. So just mainly so I can keep tabs on everything in regards to this property. It’s very easy to lose track of paying the bills and how to log in and check if you’re overdue on stuff. And it’s just, it can get quite chaotic. So having it all here in the one document is super handy.
That’s the document. So pretty much all you need to do is I’m going to put a link below this video so you can download this and you can kind of sort of make it your own. And this is something that I personally update multiple times a week, as I said, and yeah, this is like, I actually call this my life tracker because it keeps everything, finance and goal related in the one document. And it’s very simple. It’s not fancy, but it does the job. And it means that I’m very, very clear about how am I progressing and putting out any issues or anything that I think is a problem, it’s all going to be captured in here as well.
Once you open up the link, click File and make a copy, and then you’ll have your own copy in Google Sheets. And then you can edit it to your heart’s content.
I hope you found that useful. If there’s anything you think I should have added maybe or anything that you do in terms of tracking your stuff and you find it really useful, please let me know. I love hearing about what other people are doing. Maybe it might give me some good ideas. But other than that, thanks for watching. And of course, if you like the video, please give it a like, and subscribe if you like more videos like this. Cheers.